Pests and Pest Control

What about pests?

CP Pest Control

What about pests?

Even though CPs eat insects, they are still victimised by pests. CPs can become infested with scale insects, mealy bugs, aphids, thrips, slugs, caterpillars, and mites. When possible, remove the pests manually (pluck them off), because CPs can be very sensitive to chemicals. Biological controls, such as lady-bugs, are of limited use because they are rapidly consumed by the plants! If you move to a chemical approach, the best results seem to have come from isopropyl alcohol, pyrethrum, Rogor, or Malathion. The use of chemicals needs a disclaimer: what works for one person may not work for everyone. Insecticidal soaps, unfortunately, seem to be deadly to CPs although some growers seem to use them safely. Pyrethrum, a compound extracted from Chrysanthemums, is often considered more plant friendly – some growers like using it on their CPs (but it can damage pitchers and flowers of Sarracenia). Some people like Malathion – it has the advantage of being available in wettable powder form, as it seems that while Malathion itself is not too bad for CPs, the solvents used to transform it to liquid form are CP-toxic. Rogor, a systemic insecticide, is very effective for killing scale and mealy bug insects, as well as many other insects (beware - Rogor may cause problems with Nepenthes), because it poisons the sap of the plant and so poisons all the sap-suckers and leaf-eaters – even if you can't see them.

Red Spider Mite, also known as Two-spotted Mite, is a particularly troublesome pest on Sarracenia plants, and to a slightly lesser extent on Nepenthes and Heliamphora. Its presence can be recognised by the presence by a rusty colouration (flecking) on one side of the pitcher and a fine silvery-white webbing on the other side. With either keen eyesight or with the aid of a magnifying glass, final confirmation can be made by seeing these pin-head size little red offenders.

Once known or suspected of being there, treatment should begin immediately. The systemic insecticide Rogor, together with a small amount of spreader (wetting agent) is probably best and safest for you plants. (Some growers have had problems with using Rogor on Nepenthes.)

To apply this preparation use a fine misting gun or wand. When treating a red spider infestation it is necessary to spray not only the infected, possibly infected, and might become infected plants, but also every square centimetre of your planthouse. This includes the walls, roof, tops and undersides of all benches. These terrible creatures are incredibly tenacious, so it is essential that every possible nook and cranny must be covered. Spray at fortnightly intervals until you can be quite sure that the problem is cured – not just contained.

When you apply insecticides, do so in the shade and on cool days because this may be easier on the plants. Also, wear appropriate face-masks and gloves when using toxic compounds. Some growers have problems with larger pests, such as cats, dogs, deer, birds, and opossums. Unfortunately, once these animals have decided to bother your plants you are in trouble. The only effective thing to do is cage your plants. Birds dig in the compost in large pots looking for potential goodies; and can seriously dislodge the plant therein. If you can train your beloved Felis catus or Canis familiaris to stand guard and keep the birds away – very good luck.

It is possible to perform a bit of role-reversal on the snail pests – to the benefit of one of the very popular CP species. (A suggestion originated by Richard Sullivan, in Bathurst.)

The plant to be involved is Sarracenia purpurea. Each of the sub-species, varieties and forms of S. purpurea have an erect hood – one that fairly obviously is meant to catch rain-water, and so drown the prey that ventures into the pitchers.

When you find those bandits, the snails (the small to medium-sized ones) in your garden, crush their shell with you foot slightly; just enough to be sure that the snail will die. If the shell is dislodged and lost – so much the better. Next, drop these crippled gastropods into the water-filled pitchers of Sarracenia purpurea. If you had not squashed the snails a bit, they would be able to cling onto the inside of the pitchers and escape – to continue their marauding activities on your beloved plants.

(The snails too big for your Sarracenia purpurea pitchers should receive a much more generous application of foot-power.)

So, the snails will soon drown and/or die in the water-filled Sarracenia purpurea pitchers. The acids and enzymes produced by the plant will slowly break down their body parts and the resulting nutrients will be absorbed in the usual way.

Then, you can watch the amazed and disbelieving expressions on the faces of your friends when you inform them: "The plants are eating my snails."

CP Pest Control